General Care


Bathing


The puppy should not have a bath for the first two weeks. You do not want to bathe your new puppy for the first two weeks due to the puppy being in a new environment and the stress that may affect the puppy. Even if the puppy is behaving normally, eating, pooping, peeing, and playing, the puppy can still experience stress. Submerging any new puppy in water until you have really began to bond with him is not a good idea. If the puppy makes a mess, you can spot clean him by using warm water and a washcloth to wipe the puppy. When it is time for a bath, it is best to use commercial pet shampoos specifically designed for puppies. We recommend using puppy oatmeal shampoos as they are less harsh on a puppy’s coat. Using these shampoos can make during and after bath time much more enjoyable for your new puppy.

It is recommended to fill the bathtub or utility sink with just enough water to reach your puppy's under belly with warm water. Have a cup handy as well as the shampoo and conditioner or just shampoo. Be sure that you don’t get shampoo or water in the puppy’s eyes or ears! You can use a curry brush which is meant to help remove dead hair from the undercoat. As you lather up the puppy make sure he does not drink the water as it can make him sick. Fully rinse the Shampoo out of the puppy's coat much like you would your own hair. You can use either the cup or if you have a detachable shower head, that will work too.

Once the puppy has been fully rinsed, drain all water from the tub. Grab a towel and towel dry the puppy as much as possible. You can use a blow dryer on a low heat setting. Be sure to keep the blow dryer far enough away from the skin/coat as to not burn the puppy. If you have a long coated breed use a slicker brush when drying to prevent matting, if it is a smooth coated breed use a bristle brush when brushing. It is important to brush out the pup’s coat fully after a bath to prevent painful mats from forming!




Grooming


It is very important for your puppy to become comfortable with being groomed. Grooming involves more than just brushing. Nail clipping, ear and eye cleaning, as well as being able to touch all parts of your pup’s body is very important for his overall health. From the first day that the puppy arrives to your home you should get the puppy used to being handled and touched. Gently touching his toes and feet, cleaning his ears with a cotton ball, wiping his eyes, and brushing his coat are all important aspects of daily care of your new pet. You should spend 10 minutes per day the first few weeks going over all of these different aspects to introduce the puppy to being handled. Holding the puppy safely in your arms or on a commercial grooming table while doing these tasks teaches the puppy to hold still and trust his human caregivers. Even if you plan on using a professional groomer to care for your puppy’s coat, it is important to introduce him to this handling so going to the groomer is less stressful.




Car Rides


CAR RIDES
Much like humans, most puppies love the car and the opportunity to go out into the world. Introducing your puppy to the car should be done slowly and safely. Allowing your puppy to jump around in the car without restraint is a safety hazard for both the puppy and the driver. Even a small fender bender accident can send your puppy flying into the seatback or windshield, causing injury to the pup if he is not safely contained. You should have your puppy safely confined inside a travel carrier or attached to a pet seatbelt anytime the car is moving. Start getting the puppy used to the car with short trips around the block. Talk to the puppy during the drive, telling him he is a good boy, so he is soothed by your voice. When you arrive to your destination or back home you can give your puppy a treat for being well behaved. You should always deprive the puppy of food and water for at least 30 minutes before car rides to reduce the risk of motion sickness.

MOTION SICKNESS

Like humans, some puppies can exhibit motion sickness. There are usually two reasons that cause a dog to experience sickness, anxiety or lack of balance. Excessive drooling, retching, vomiting, or diarrhea can all be symptoms of motion sickness. If your puppy is showing signs of motion sickness, don’t worry. Many puppies outgrow motion sickness and there are many things you can do to desensitize your puppy, letting him learn to enjoy car rides. Start by making sure the puppy doesn’t eat or drink at least an hour before heading to the car. Always make sure the car is cool when you put your puppy in it to prevent overheating. You can lower the windows in the car a couple inches to provide fresh air and equalize the air pressure between the inside of the car and the outside.

You can begin introducing him to the joy of car travel by bringing the puppy into the car without starting the car. You can give the puppy a treat (as long as he isn’t exhibiting signs of nausea) and play with him while inside the car for five minutes each day for a week. Once he becomes comfortable in the car you can start the car so he gets used to the engine noise, again not going anywhere, just getting him used to the experience.

Spend 5 minutes each day doing these activities to get the puppy comfortable. After two weeks of this, you can take the next step by taking the puppy for a drive around the block. Even if the puppy seems like he is doing well, only go around the block and come right back home. Each week slowly drive further and further distances to acclimate the puppy. If there is a park or a beach close by, stop and have some fun with the puppy so he understands that driving in the car will bring him to fun places!

If after doing these exercises the puppy is still having issues with motion sickness there are some over the counter remedies that you can try that have shown success. Remember, what works for one dog may not work for another so try different things until you find what works for your pup!
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EXERCISE-MENTAL AND PHYSICAL


It is important to provide both mental and physical exercise for your puppy. Mental stimulation is very important during the all important first year of growth, while physical exercise should be provided cautiously due to your young pups’ joint growth and potential damage that can be caused by physically stressing his joints through over exercise. Remember: A tired dog is a good dog!

Physical exercise
So as not to cause injury to your new puppy’s joints, a good rule of thumb for exercising a puppy is to provide five minutes of exercise for each month of age (up to twice a day) until the puppy is fully grown. Basically, a three month old puppy would be allowed 15 minutes of exercise (up to twice a day), 20 minutes when four months old etc. Once they are fully grown and their growth plates have closed, they can exercise safely, as long as they have the stamina. Each breed’s growth rate will vary. While some breeds are considered full grown at twelve months, other breeds may not mature until two years of age.

The type of physical exercise provided is very important for a growing pup. Young puppies should never jump, climb, or leap in the air as these movements can cause injury and permanent damage to his joints and bones. While many people wouldn’t consider jumping off a couch or bed to be exercise, this simple act can put tremendous pressure on ligaments and joints, causing serious injury, especially in small breeds since that would be considered great distance in height for such a small pup! Healthy exercise should be comprised of a gentle game of fetch or other similar activity where the pup sets the pace of activity and the activity ceases as soon as the puppy shows fatigue. All exercise should be done with the puppy’s four feet safely on the ground, with not too much twisting or pounding on his joints and bones. Remember, a tired dog is a good dog. A bored dog is a dog looking for trouble!

MENTAL STIMULATION
Although providing physical exercise is an important aspect of pet ownership, many puppy owners aren’t aware of the importance of mental stimulation. Dogs are intelligent creatures capable of learning a vast wealth of knowledge, many owners don’t take advantage of incredible opportunities to teach their pup to be a well rounded member of the family. Every moment of every day should be utilized to teach and this is not hard to accomplish. Make your dog THINK! Thinking takes energy. Using energy makes a dog tired. And a tired dog is a good dog! A bored dog is a dog looking for trouble!

Start with simple tasks with your new puppy and use all available opportunities to teach the puppy something. Each time you feed him make him sit and wait patiently for a moment before placing down the food bowl. Make him wait patiently for you to hand him a toy and don’t let him grab it from you. Hand feed him his dinner so he gets used to your hand being near his food. Pick up his bowl half way through his dinner and make him wait patiently for a moment until you put it back down. Make him sit at door before going out. Make him sit while you put the collar or leash on him. When taking him for a walk make him sit and wait at each corner before crossing the street. Put a treat in a cup and place the cup with other cups on the floor and make him work to find his treat. All of these different scenarios enforce that you are the boss and the puppy must behave, while learning a new behavior! In addition, there are also many brain puzzles you can purchase online or in your local pet store to provide interactive games with your puppy. Food reward games such as a filled Kong toy also provide mental stimulation along with reward, and prevent boredom from setting in.


Feeding Small Breeds


For scheduled Feedings, feed your puppy 4-5 times daily for the first month. Follow the instructions on the dog food bag for the amount of cups of dry food per weight of your puppy.

Mix the dry food with hot water, chicken broth, or soup, and let stand for five to ten minutes until it gets soft, then you may add a bit of canned dog food, jarred baby food, or any meat or poultry, boneless and cooked, such as hamburger or chicken.

Leave the food down for 1⁄2 hour before removing it.

If your puppy doesn’t eat, you MUST try different options as suggested above! If you pup doesn’t eat he can become weak and ill.

**For the first two weeks you have your new puppy home, leave a small handful of dry dog food in the crate with the puppy as well as a small amount of water at all times, this will help your puppy adjust to his new surroundings and schedule.** **You cannot over feed, more is better!**



*EXTREMELY IMPORTANT*
NUTRISTAT/NUTRICAL/NUTRIPET:
1 teaspoon twice daily directly into mouth. Do not mix into food. Use until the tube is finished. This will help your new puppy maintain healthy weight while transitioning into his new home.
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**KARO LIGHT SYRUP:
1 teaspoon ( 1⁄2 a syringe) twice daily for seven days. Karo syrup is very thick, make sure it is given slowly. Do not mix into food. This will help your new puppy maintain a healthy glucose level while adjusting to his new environment.
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Mixing Nutri and Karo




MULTI-VITAMIN: (Chewable) 1⁄4 -1⁄2 tablet once daily. Do not mix into food. This will provide extra vitamins and minerals to assist with bone growth and calcium needs.
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NO DAIRY PRODUCTS!!! It will give the puppy diarrhea.

DO NOT EXPOSE YOUR NEW PUPPY TO ILLNESS!
Although your puppy has received his initial series of vaccinations and wormings, this does not mean your puppy is safe from illness. Puppies are susceptible to a variety of illnesses due to their age and the stress of going to his new home. Your puppy has not completed his vaccinations and is very susceptible to exposure to serious viruses such as Parvo and Distemper, as well as parasites such as hookworm and whipworm. Do NOT bring your new puppy to any public areas including grooming shops, parks, public sidewalks, or anywhere that other dogs may go. Do NOT allow your puppy to sniff other dog’s feces or walk him in areas where other dogs have been. Do NOT introduce him to any other dogs. Do NOT allow anyone that has been around other dogs to interact with your puppy as they can carry viruses on their shoes and clothing into your home. If you or your children have been around other dogs while out in public, you should immediately change your clothes and wash your hands and other body parts that have come into contact with other animals before you get close to your own puppy. Once your puppy has completed his vaccinations (typically between 16-18 weeks of age) your vet will let you know when it is safe to bring your puppy to public areas without risking exposure.

Playtime
DO NOT OVERDUE PLAYTIME!!
Playtime should be broken up into small intervals of 15 – 25 minutes and then put back into his crate to rest. The puppy should not go outside, EXCEPT FOR HOUSEBREAKING, in one, safe, puppy proof area. The puppy should not be allowed near other dogs until he is finished with all of his vaccinations and wormings. The puppy should not go into the car once he gets home unless he is visiting the veterinarian’s office for the first two weeks. The puppy should not have a bath for the first two weeks as they are susceptible to colds when they first arrive home.

***Make sure your puppy is in a safe, puppy proof area at all times and under adult supervision.***

REMEMBER THIS IS A BABY!!!

The puppy will need lots of rest for the first few weeks. Do not treat the puppy as a toy. You must not continuously pick up the puppy or play too much. The puppy should be confined to a small, safe, puppy proof area for the majority of the day and night (approximately 16 hours a day for the first two weeks).

HEALTH ALERTS
Your puppy can become gravely ill or even die if he licks or swallows just a small amount of the following, common household items. Chocolate, hops or beer, household plants, potting soil, antifreeze, household cleaners, onions and onion powder, alcoholic beverages, coffee (grounds or beans), tea, salt, macadamia nuts, tomato leaves and stems, potato leaves and stems, chubard leaves, avocados, moldy foods, or lawn fertilizers.

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Feeding Large Breeds


For scheduled Feedings, feed your puppy 3 times daily for the first month.

Follow the instructions on the dog food bag for the amount of cups of dry food per weight of your puppy.

Mix the dry food with hot water, chicken broth, or soup, and let stand for five to ten minutes until it gets soft, then you may add a bit of canned dog food, jarred baby food, or any meat or poultry, boneless and cooked, such as hamburger or chicken.

Leave the food down for 1⁄2 hour before removing it.

If your puppy doesn’t eat, you must offer some of the suggestions mentioned above! If your pup doesn’t eat he can become weak and ill.

**For the first two weeks you have your new puppy home, leave a handful of dry dog food in the crate with the puppy as well as a small amount of water at all times, this will help your puppy adjust to his new surroundings and schedule.**



NO DAIRY PRODUCTS!!! It will give the puppy diarrhea.

VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS

NUTRISTAT/NUTRICAL/NUTRIPET:

1 teaspoon twice daily directly into mouth. Do not mix into food. Use until the tube is finished. This will help your new puppy maintain healthy weight while transitioning into his new home.
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Mixing Nutri and Karo




MULTI-VITAMIN:

(Chewable) 1⁄4 -1⁄2 tablet once daily. Do not mix into food. This will provide extra vitamins and minerals to assist with bone growth and calcium needs.
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DO NOT EXPOSE YOUR NEW PUPPY TO ILLNESS!

Although your puppy has received his initial series of vaccinations and wormings, this does not mean your puppy is safe from illness. Puppies are susceptible to a variety of illnesses due to their age and the stress of going to his new home. Your puppy has not completed his vaccinations and is very susceptible to exposure to serious viruses such as Parvo and Distemper, as well as parasites such as hookworm and whipworm. Do NOT bring your new puppy to any public areas including grooming shops, parks, public sidewalks, or anywhere that other dogs may go. Do NOT allow your puppy to sniff other dog’s feces or walk him in areas where other dogs have been. Do NOT introduce him to any other dogs. Do NOT allow anyone that has been around other dogs to interact with your puppy as they can carry viruses on their shoes and clothing into your home. If you or your children have been around other dogs while out in public, you should immediately change your clothes and wash your hands and other body parts that have come into contact with other animals before you get close to your own puppy. Once your puppy has completed his vaccinations (typically between 16-18 weeks of age) your vet will let you know when it is safe to bring your puppy to public areas without risking exposure.

Playtime

DO NOT OVERDUE PLAYTIME!!
Playtime should be broken up into small intervals of 15 – 25 minutes and then put back into his crate to rest. The puppy should not go outside, EXCEPT FOR HOUSEBREAKING, in one, safe, puppy proof area. The puppy should not be allowed near other dogs until he is finished with all of his vaccinations and wormings. The puppy should not go into the car once he gets home unless he is visiting the veterinarian’s office for the first two weeks. The puppy should not have a bath for the first two weeks as they are susceptible to colds when they first arrive home.

***Make sure your puppy is in a safe, puppy proof area at all times and under adult supervision.***

REMEMBER THIS IS A BABY!!! The puppy will need lots of rest for the first few weeks. Do not treat the puppy as a toy. You must not continuously pick up the puppy or play too much. The puppy should be confined to a small, safe, puppy proof area for the majority of the day and night (approximately 16 hours a day for the first two weeks).

HEALTH ALERTS

Your puppy can become gravely ill or even die if he licks or swallows just a small amount of the following, common household items. Chocolate, hops or beer, household plants, potting soil, antifreeze, household cleaners, onions and onion powder, alcoholic beverages, coffee (grounds or beans), tea, salt, macadamia nuts, tomato leaves and stems, potato leaves and stems, chubard leaves, avocados, moldy foods, or lawn fertilizers.

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Proper Handling of Your Puppy


Puppies are like human babies, fragile, unaware of danger, and unable to control their bodies. They do not know how to climb, jump, or land on their feet. They are completely unaware of dangers such as falling from balconies, decks, or down a flight of stairs. They will instantly leap from your arms, or jump off a couch or chair, and all of these situations will result in serious injury! Puppies are wiggly and squirmy and difficult to hold. We strongly encourage you to sit on the floor when playing or holding your puppy so that if he jumps or wiggles out of your arms, he will not have far to reach the floor, thus preventing injury.

***Children should NEVER hold or carry a puppy and should be taught to play safely on the floor with a puppy.

NEVER place your puppy on a chair, counter, or bed, or other high surface
NEVER let your puppy jump from your arms, the bed, the couch, or anywhere higher than he is tall
NEVER let a stranger hold your puppy since you don’t know if they know the proper way.
NEVER allow your puppy unsupervised on a deck or balcony
NEVER allow your puppy access to the top or bottom of stairs unsupervised as he could tumble down or attempt to climb and then fall back down.

Puppies and Children- Safe interactions
Puppies and children should be supervised at all times. Below are just a few safety tips to remember when bringing home a new puppy.

NEVER allow a child and puppy together unsupervised.
NEVER allow a child to pick up or carry a puppy
NEVER allow a child to put their face near a puppy
NEVER allow a child to run away from a puppy with the puppy chasing the child as a form of “play”
NEVER allow a child to climb on, step on, pinch, poke or otherwise annoy or hurt a puppy
NEVER allow a child to be responsible for feeding or otherwise provide necessary care for a puppy
NEVER allow a child to go near a puppy that is sleeping, eating, or chewing on a toy

REMEMBER-puppies will chew and nip on anything, including hands, feet, and faces. Be safe when interacting with your new puppy. Puppy teeth are sharp!


Socializing Your New Puppy


Safety First!

You want to be able to take your puppy out into the world to show him off to friends and introduce him to the wonders of the world BUT, your new puppy (like a human baby) has not completed his vaccinations and at this time is very susceptible to viruses and illness. Although your puppy has received his initial vaccinations and wormings, he will need to continue his vaccination schedule through a licensed veterinarian to provide him with full protection before he can go out safely into public spaces! Additional vaccinations are typically complete between the ages of 16-18 weeks of age. Please contact your veterinarian to set up an appointment to continue his age appropriate vaccinations and wormings.

While waiting for his vaccinations to be complete, there are many things you can introduce him to right in your own home to help him become a well mannered and well balanced pet! How to behave around vacuums, learning how to go up and down stairs, housebreaking, teaching him his name and basic commands, calmly greeting houseguests, these are all things to teach the puppy during his first weeks in his new home!

Socialization ABC’s
-As soon as the puppy is fully vaccinated you can start taking the puppy on walks and outings into public are as so he can begin having new adventures.

You need to get him used to meeting and greeting strangers and other animals while in public. You must take your time and not push the pup into a situation where he is uncomfortable. Puppies don't come into the world knowing all the right things to do, so be patient, introduce him to new things slowly, and enjoy your outings with him.

-Make sure your puppy meets people of every age, size, shape, and color. Clothing and smells can alarm a puppy so it’s important to expose him to different situations. Hats, costumes, and other things can frighten young puppies so be sure to introduce him to lots of different types of people. Ask that people remain quiet when first meeting your puppy. Your puppy should always be the first one to make contact with anyone. People should never just reach out to touch the puppy or bend over placing their face close to the puppy before the puppy has had the opportunity to sniff and react positively to the person. Don’t overwhelm him by bringing him into large crowds or noisy areas until he becomes very comfortable in meeting with people in public.

Using small treats to give to the puppy when he behaves in new situations is a great way to socialize your pup. This will help build trust between you and your loving companion.

***If you don't have time and patience needed to invest in the adventure of raising a puppy properly, please don't bring one home. They need lots of patience and caring their first months with you to give them a good start. They need to follow a schedule to learn what is expected and what is wrong behavior. Like a human baby, they rely on their caregivers to teach them manners and social skills and to give them the sustenance and safe and loving home they need to be happy.


VETERINARIAN CARE


Much like utilizing the services of a medical doctor for yourself and your family, you pet needs health care too! Preventative health care that includes following a proper vaccination schedule is just as important as emergency care when your pet gets sick. Dogs cannot tell us when they feel sick and many times are able to hide illness very well, which delays proper veterinary treatment. Responsible pet owners should take their pet for an annual wellness exam, have all vaccinations administered up to date, and should seek the advice of a licensed veterinarian whenever the need arises.

Vaccinations
Although your new puppy has received initial vaccinations prior to you taking him home, puppies must receive a series of vaccinations and it is important that you seek the advice of a veterinarian to continue his vaccinations to provide full immunity against illnesses. Typically, puppies will need at least two additional vaccinations to complete the series with the last vaccines given between 16-18 weeks of age. Shortly after arriving home you should contact your veterinarian to make an appointment for your puppy to receive additional vaccinations approximately 2 weeks after purchase. Please bring a copy of your pup’s previous vaccinations with you to the vet. During this visit, your vet will give the puppy a thorough wellness exam to the puppy, answer any questions you have, and will most likely do a fecal analysis and give any additional worming medications that need to be given based upon the results. You will be given a schedule of future appointments to complete the vaccination series, including a rabies vaccination that is required by law.

SPAY SURGERY for a female
Your female pup will go through puberty much like a human. At this time of surging hormones, your pup will go through her first heat (menstrual cycle). Dogs, like humans, are all different, so some dogs bleed heavy, others not at all. Many pet owners want to spay as soon as possible so they don’t have to deal with their dog’s heat cycle but it’s important to remember that hormones are important for proper growth! Spay surgery is a serious decision and it is important to educate yourself on all options available and discuss what choices are best for you and your pet with your veterinarian.

Traditional Spay Surgery
Traditional spay surgery removes ALL reproduction organs, like a hysterectomy for a woman. Taking away all hormones from a dog too early can cause issues with bone development, side effects such as spay incontinence, and put the dog at more risk for certain illnesses and cancers. More and more studies are showing the importance of delaying spay surgery to allow full hormonal growth, for the benefit of the dog. Although many vets like to schedule spay surgery early to prevent unwanted pregnancies from occurring, responsible pet owners can prevent pregnancy while allowing their dog to reach her full potential prior to spaying.

Ovary Sparing Spay Surgery
With the downsides of performing traditional spay surgery that removes the ovaries and therefore takes away the benefits of hormones from the female dog, many progressive veterinarians across the country are now offering an alternative spay surgery called “OSS” which is “ovary sparing spay”. As it is named, this surgery is much like a tubal ligation surgery for a woman. The tubes are “tied” off to prevent unwanted pregnancy while saving the organs responsible for providing hormones for the benefit of the dog.

NEUTER SURGERY for a male
Your male pup will go through puberty much like a human. At this time of surging hormones, your pup will feel the surge of testosterone. Many pet owners want to neuter as soon as possible so they don’t have to deal with surging hormones but it’s important to remember that hormones are important for proper growth! Neuter surgery is a serious decision and it is important to educate yourself on all options available and discuss what choices are best for you and your pet with your veterinarian.

Traditional Neuter Surgery
Traditional neuter surgery removes ALL reproduction organs, so the testicles are completely removed. Taking away all hormones from a dog too early can cause issues with bone development and put the dog at more risk for certain illnesses and cancers. More and more studies are showing the importance of delaying neuter surgery to allow full hormonal growth, for the benefit of the dog. Although many vets like to schedule neuter surgery early to prevent unwanted pregnancies from occurring, responsible pet owners can prevent pregnancy with neighborhood dogs while allowing their dog to reach his full potential prior to neutering.

Organ Sparing Surgery (Vasectomy)
With the downsides of performing traditional neuter surgery that removes the testicles and therefore takes away the benefits of hormones from the male dog, many progressive veterinarians across the country are now offering an alternative surgery called “OSS” which is “organ sparing surgery” or “vasectomy”. As it is named, this surgery is much like a vasectomy surgery for a man. The testicles are “tied” off to prevent the ability to impregnate a female while saving the organs responsible for providing hormones for the benefit of the dog.




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